February 4, 2012 – We are on our way south to Cabo San Lucas with our next group after returning with our January Tour on February 1.  The construction continues on many sections of the Highway and real progress continues. Mexico should be very proud of how much improvement they have made on the Baja Highway system over the past few years.

Highway 3: Tecate-Ensenada

They have made great progress on 10 km/6 miles of construction since we were last on this road in December, 2011. Lots of resources have been committed to this project, and it shows.  Only 5km/3 miles of construction remains and it is very passable by rigs of all sizes.  There is lots of new pavement and the gravel sections are graded and packed.  We expect this will be complete in April, 2012.

Highway 19: Cabo San Lucas – Todos Santos

This is an amazing project for sure and the resources, both human and equipment, are substantial. Our guess would be that there are about 1,000 workers and 100 pieces of road-building equipment.  We have heard they are working on this 24/7 and want it completed in time for the G20 Summit in June of this year, hosted by Mexico, to be held in Cabo San Lucas.  The difference between our drive at the end of November, 2011 and our drive on January 21, 2012 was significant indeed. Only the major cuts and bridge construction sections remain in gravel, well graded and packed. The balance of the highway is paved, some with all four lanes completed, other sections only two lanes. We are confident this will be complete for June and look forward to seeing what they have accomplished when we are there again in three weeks.

Highway 1:

Santo Tomás KM 39-KM 49

We have seen immense progress on this project since November 5, 2011.  The entire section is now paved, although not entirely complete, with the exception of the actual cut though the mountain at KM 44-KM 47 (best guess).  You still must detour around this section, partially on the old road, and switchback. We are confident that when we leave Baja with our last tour and drive this for the last time this season in April, we will drive on the new section that passes through the mountain.

Cataviña: North & South

This has all been paved for some time now and is now almost 100 percent complete.  What is a bit puzzling and surprising is the new section south of Catavina where potholes are developing. We know little about the paving process; however, we can safely speculate that something went wrong with this particular project regarding the re-pavement aspects.  The good news is we have seen road crews repairing many of these sections, and the road surface is once again improving.  Those who drive this section often will recall this was once the worst section of Highway 1 for many years.

Jesus María

Our first experience on this 8-km/5-mile section, between the military checkpoint and Jesus Maria, was in early November 2011 and was brutal to say the least.  The detour was for “Gringos Only” and the worst Baja gravel road we had been on for years.  It was like driving to the San Javier Mission before it was paved. We are pleased to report that everyone is now detoured off the section in construction and the gravel road is in great shape, well graded and flat.  We were safely and comfortably driving 30 km/20 miles per hour on this section. Progress on this section seems quite slow, with only a few pieces of equipment and a couple of crews ever spotted on the site.  Why is this?  We don’t know for sure, but we will see how things are coming in a week when we return south.

In addition to our laundry list here of the best annual Events in the region, on Baja.com we’ve assembled hundreds of the top Events in Baja. We struggled here to come up with a sampling of top 14 of our favorites, just to get your mouth watering.  It was no easy task!

As these events often turn on forces of nature, the dates and times frequently change. Accordingly, please be sure to confirm the schedule before you travel. Feel free to email info@baja.com, local Baja experts, if you need any help in planning your travel.

JANUARY 2012 

Todos Santos: 1st Annual Todos Santos Music Festival

Last event took place January 5th through January 21st, 2012.

This was a charitable three-week long event at The Hotel California, featuring world renown Peter Buck of REM, Steve Wynn, Robyn Hitchcock, and Scott McCaughey. Concerts took place four nights a week and special guests, such as Chuck Prophet, Kevn Kinney, and the group The Elected made surprise appearances.

For More Info: Todos Santos Music Festival

East Cape: 2nd Annual Lord of the Wind Showdown (Los Barriles)

For More Info: Lord of the Winds Showdown

JANUARY- FEBRUARY 2012

Ensenada: The Peligroso at Todos Santos Island (January or February)

Last event 2011.

The competition only takes place when the waves are 30 feet or larger. While the event did not take place in 2012, typically surfers from all corners of  the world come together to take part in this unique, “paddle-in” surfing competition.

For More Info: Todos Santos Island Big Wave World Tour

Mulege: Pig Races (February 12th, 2012)

No event roster would be complete without this one-of-a-kind event! Only in Baja! What more can we say? No, it does not end with a barbecue!

For More Info: Mulege Pig Races

Todos Santos: Film Festival (February 28-March 3, 2012)

The 9th edition of the Todos Santos film festival takes place both in Todos Santos and La Paz from February 23rd through March 3rd. The most talented and innovative Latin American independent movie makers will present over 20 movies, documentaries and shorts from Mexico, Spain Cuba, Chile and Argentina during the first 5 days of the festival.

For More Info: Todos Santos Film Festival

APRIL

Ensenada: 65th Newport to Ensenada International Yacht Race (April 27th – 29th, 2012)

For More Info: Newport to Ensenada Sailing Race

Mexicali: NORRA Mexican 1000 Rally (April 28th, 2012)

For those not up to the Baja 1000, this offers everyone in the family a way to strap together an engine with some shoes laces and bubble gum and share in the family fun of a drive down the peninsula, sharing the community experience with a bunch of Baja lovers.  The winner is the participant that has the most fun!

COST: Free for spectators, participant registration goes from US$1600 to US$1967, plus a US$75 membership fee per person. US$100 late registration fee.

 For More Info: NORRA Mexican 1000 Rally

 

 

 

JUNE

 

San Diego, USA: The Baja Bash: Baja is Back (June 2nd, 2012)

Wildcoast, the international conservation team responsible for groundbreaking environmental projects and campaigns in Baja California, is behind this innovative and dynamic event that celebrates the beauty of Baja California. Surf legends, community leaders, environmental pioneers will gather at the the Port Pavilion on Broadway Pier in San Diego on June 2nd to share ideas and experiences about the Baja they love.  We’ll see you there!

For More Info: Baja Bash in San Diego

 

 

JULY

 

Tijuana: Tijuana Beer Fest (July)

The Beer Fest features over 100 different types of beer and feature great music during these two days dedicated to the art of brewing (and tasting).

COST: entry tickets go for approximately US$8

For More Info: Tijuana Beer Fest

 

 

 

 

AUGUST

Ensenada: Wine Festival – Fiestas de la Vendimia

From the Latin word for wine, Vinum, and Demere meaning ‘to take’ or ‘take away’, the Vendimia is time for celebration. The two century long wine tradition of the Guadalupe Valley is the focus. For nearly three weeks every August wine aficionados have the opportunity to attend wine tastings, savor gourmet meals, attend workshops and concerts. Last year’s activities included an opera concert in a local vineyard with  an Italian dinner and wine tasting, a cheese party with artisan bread, house wine and live music.

COST: the price varies for each event during the Vendimia, ranging from US$100 to over US$1,000.

For More Info: Vendimia Wine Festival 

                                                                                                   

 

 

 OCTOBER

 

Cabo San Lucas: Pimp N’  Ho Party (October)

The last event took place October 22nd, 2011

The Cabo Pimp N’ Ho Ball is one of the most unique events in the area, and regularly draws huge crowds. The ten year anniversary drew over 1500 people, with every one of them sporting their best duds for the craziest night of the year in Cabo San Lucas.

COST: tickets start at US$20 in July and increase by US$20 every month, up to $100 the night of the event.

For More Info: Pimp N’ Ho Party

 

 

 

Cabo San Lucas: Bisbee’s Black & Blue Fishing Tournament (October 23th – 27th, 2012)

The Bisbee’s Black and Blue is one of the highest paying fishing tournaments in Mexico, with a grand prize of over $1,000,000. With two back-to-back events in Cabo, the Los Cabos Offshore and the Black and Blue, the Bisbee is also one of the most active and popular of the fishing tournaments.

COST: registration starts at US$63,100 per boat.

For More Info: Bisbee’s Back & Blue Fishing Tournament

 

 

 

 

NOVEMBER

 

San Felipe: San Felipe Shrimp Festival (November)

Every year in November, the Shrimp Festival in San Felipe is celebrated with an abundance of succulent shrimp recipes, traditional tequila and regionally produced wine tasting  and folkloric dances. The event includes a competition that will reward the chef of the best shrimp dish.

COST: admission is free, US$5 and US$10 tickets are for sale for shrimp and drink tasting.

For More Info: San Felipe Shrimp Festival

 

 

 

 

Ensenada: Tecate SCORE Baja 1000 (November)

The Baja 1000 is one of the most famous rally races in the world, covering 1000 miles of the most rugged, unforgiving terrain that the world has to offer. Over 200,000 people are drawn to this event each year, hoping to catch a glimpse. Over 300 cars, trucks, motorcycles, and ATVs attempt to dominate the 1,000 mile mountainous course in hopes of “beating the Baja”.  This is an event that needs to be experienced to be understood, and spectators are encouraged to make their way out to view this popular race. In 2011 this was a loop starting and finishing in Ensenada.

COST: entry fee starts at US$3,000.

For More Info: Tecate Score Baja 1000

 

                                                                                                    

What kind of person wakes up at 4:30 AM with a smile?  A fisherman.  On this morning of Dec. 30, Jim Pickell from Todos Santos, and Jim Terborg, visiting from Oregon, were going fly-fishing outside La Paz at Bahia de los Suenos in the Sea of Cortez with La Paz guide and local Leo Bishop.

Our morning drive began on this chilly morning (about 50 degrees) at 5:00 am with a star filled black sky that turned into a beautiful sunrise near El Triunfo. By 6:30 am we were looking at sailboats docked in the bay and fishermen casting nets for sardina, the local bait.

Catching Bait at Sunrise in Baja de los Suenos

After paying 200 pesos (about $15) for more sardinas than you could count, Efrain, our captain revved up the 90 hp Honda 4-stroke outboard and headed out in our panga.  These boats are designed to provide a smooth and dry trip regardless of weather, but we had calm water with gentle swells.  Perfect for casting the flies Jim Terborg tied while thinking about the trip in Oregon.

Jim Terborg’s home tied white fly with a green tint seemed to do the trick today and it wasn’t long before the first of many Bonita was landed and the layers we were wearing for warmth started peeling off.  Even on a 10wt fly rod, these fish put up quite a fight with repeated runs into the depths that bent the rod nearly in half.

For some diversity, Jim Pickell tried trolling some live bait and caught a Ladyfish, a Green Jack, and a Cabrilla (sea bass), which we kept for dinner. The captain offered to filet the fish before we left. Afternote: it was as tasty as Leo promised!

Leo, who moved to Baja years ago from British Columbia, provided drinks, lunch, fishing rods, and instruction. While Leo specializes in fly-fishing, he indicated many of his clients use conventional fishing gear.  However, he estimated that about 20% of the clients in the area are now using fly rods so it’s clearly a growing niche.

The Home Tied Fly Wins Every Time

By 1:00 pm the fishing slowed down and we called it quits.  We never hooked a Dorado, but that is why they call it “fishing” and not “catching.”  With over 10 fish, we actually did well, especially considering that December is one of the “off months” for most local fish.

Jim Terborg planned a second trip with Leo when he comes back to Todos Santos in March.  Jim Pickell hopes he’s invited again:) Next time the season would likely call for fishing outside out of La Paz and we could expect many different type of fish.

The drive home included fresh squeezed lemonade and a fresh baked cheese and rosemary loaf for the road at the Il Triunfo Café, a beautiful restaurant and bakery in El Triunfo (with great thin crust pizza) located adjacent to the former silver mine (a great place for a day trip with plenty of hiking and photo opportunities).

We pulled into Todos Santos at 2:30 pm, just in time for Jim Terborg to take a nap before going to the beach to look for whales and enjoy another magical Todos Santos sunset.

GENERAL INFORMATION

How to Get There: The drive takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes from Todos Santos. Here’s a map from Todos Santos to the launch in Los Planes (Bahia de los Suenos). Seems like it’s about 75 miles, most on well-paved highways.

View Flyfishing – Todos Santos to Bahia de los Suenos in a larger map

What to Bring: The only things you need are sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat.

Cost: About $300 all inclusive for the guide, food, gear, gas etc.

How to Book:  You can find more information and book Leo as your flyfishing guide by clicking here.

La Paz Fishing Season:

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The Peninsula of Baja California is blessed to be located in between two very abundant and biologically diverse bodies of water. On the western shores of the Baja peninsula lies the expansive blue vastness that is the Pacific Ocean while its eastern shores open up to the Gulf of California (more popularly called the Sea of Cortez or Mar de Cortes after the Spanish conquistador who discovered the peninsula). These two large bodies of water eventually meet and marry at the southernmost tip of the Baja California peninsula forming an elongated U-shaped border of water area around the peninsula.

Almost every municipality in Baja California has at least one dock, harbor, marina or beach that offers whale watching tours and trips. Several species of whales such as gray whales and humpback whales, along with other large marine animals like hammerhead sharks and whale sharks head towards the southern regions of the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean during fall and winter months to relish the warm waters found in these regions. However, many whales can still be sighted all through out the year in Baja California since the waters of the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez are rich with nutrients and sources of food for these animals.

Many tourists and vacationers that come to Baja California are attracted by the pristine beaches, crystal clear waters and the fresh sea breeze, things that can rarely be experienced and enjoyed nowadays because of the pollution and exploitation of nature which are rampant in almost every place in the entire planet. And it seems like whales are also attracted to Baja waters precisely because they continue to be untouched and are protected by both the government and the local inhabitants that rely on these waters for a living.

Here at Baja California, those wishing to watch whales up close can go on one of the whale watching tours. Guests and guides would be taken by boats and yachts to areas where humpback or gray whales can be sighted. Many time during these trips, these gentle animals would even swim close enough to the boats for guests to reach out and pat their slippery heads. Seeing and being so close to these amazing aquatic creatures is a wonderful experience that kids and adults will both enjoy.

However, you need not ride a boat out in the open sea in order to see a whale in Baja California. All you need is a little patience an d comfortable chair and you can watch whales flipping atop the water or spraying fountains of water from the backs right in the comforts of your hotel terrace or on the beach.

Come whale watching in Baja California now and enjoy a wholesome and exhilarating outdoor adventure!

Being a mother of three overly hyperactive lads whose ages are all under ten years old can be a tedious and stressful job at most times. It seems like only television or video games can keep them in their seats for more than a couple of minutes. However, I understand completely that relying on the telly or video games to babysit the children is very much unhealthy so that when choosing a summer time destination, my husband and I made sure we went somewhere where there are lots of possible fun, lovely activities that our whole family can enjoy.

When the aeroplane landed in La Paz, Baja California, it was all we could do to keep them boys from running around the place and getting lost in the crowded airport. We picked up our rental car and headed to the hotel where we have booked our two week stay in Baja California. The hotel was really lovely, with very pleasant staff and a wonderful view of the Sea of Cortez. The boys could not wait to get to out hotel room so that they can change into their swimming suits and start enjoying the sunny white sand beach which they can glimpse of from the terraces that we passed by on the way to the room.

The hotel room itself was unexpectedly spacious, what with two bedrooms that have air-conditioning and twin king size beds each. It was all very glitzy as well, with a very large jacuzzi that bubbles up warm relaxing water which is located right at our private terrace. There was also a tub, shower, toilet, sink and a large area in the bathroom for changing nappies and placing towels and some such things. We ordered room service first before doing anything else because the aeroplane food was simply terrible, and after a snack of taco pizzas, burritos and Caesar’s salad, we headed straight to the beach.

We booked a quick yacht tour along the shores of La Paz just to see the sights that I was sure was as splendid as almost everything we have seen in Baja so far. I was worried though that the lads might be bored quickly and start to complain and whine like they usually do. All three looked really lovely and adorable in their little swimming trunks and their life vests strapped around them. For a while, they sat quietly in their seats looking around the islands and views of the Sea of Cortez. I was surprised then when they start shouting quite excitedly that they saw a big fish. When we looked however, the sea was still shifting with lively leaping waves but no big fishy was in sight. After a while however, the exact same thing happened.

A few minutes after, our tour guide pointed out that a colony of gray whales were swimming not far from where our yacht was, and it was these large mammals that the boys caught a glimpse of. When told that what they saw were whales, they were quite amazed and excited, and their little eyes kept on moving rapidly over the water in search of the large mammals they have seen only in books and telly before that summer. A little while later, a humongous one surfaced near the boat and let out a hefty spray of water. The boys squealed their delight, pointing and jumping at the whale. The tour guides seemed to find them all so adorable that they lent them their binoculars and the lads spent the entire hour long boat ride looking for whales and shouting out loud when they see one.

We went to several other whale watching places in La Paz. Others used yachts to take us near the bathing colonies of whales while other whale watching activities took place in the marina or the beach. Several times, the whales came so close to the boats that we could reach out and touch them. I myself was a little afraid but the children were tremendously excited to touch a live whale and they kept on reaching out their tiny hands to brush the slippery skin of the whales. We took plenty of videos and pictures and we even bought the boys whale stuffed animals to take with them as remembrances of our whale watching adventures in Baja California.

On a dark desert highway, the cool wind in my hair. Warm smell of colitas, rising up through the air. Up ahead in the distance, I saw a shimmering light. My head grew heavy and my sight grew dim, I had to stop for the night—OK, it wasn’t a dark desert highway, more of a friendly and bright Baja street. The wind at the time was cool, although it wasn’t in my hair cause I had my hair was up in a ponytail. There were definitely no colitas involved since a gram of which will earn you a couple of months in jail. And I don’t remember seeing any shimmering lights although I did see a traffic light (the only one in the entire Todos Santos area in fact). No heaviness of head and dimness of sight was experienced, but I definitely wanted to stop, not just for a night, but for an entire week at the famed Hotel California in Todos Santos, Baja California.

Time and time again, several circumstances have proven that the popularity of urban legends benefits local tourism greatly. In Europe for instance, there are plenty of supposedly haunted castles, dungeons and cathedrals that have been a permanent feature on tour maps because of their interesting histories and the intriguing beliefs and rumors that surround them. In Baja California, Mexico however, there is located a little hotel known to millions and millions of people all over the world because of a very popular song. The band who popularized this song was no less than the rock icon the Eagles and the song was known to everyone as Hotel California.

Although I wasn’t even born yet during the time Hotel California was first performed and released by Don Henley and fellow band members, the song has retained its appeal and popularity up until the twenty-first century. I have come across a past copy of the Rolling Stones magazine where it was said that Hotel California was one of the fifty greatest songs of all time (it ranked number 49 I think). I have always loved the song and it is a permanent track in my iPod now. So when I read an article in the Internet mentioning the real Hotel California in Baja which supposedly inspired this all time favorite song of mine, I decided to invite some friends to come and spend a week there with me.

It was rumored that Don Henley was staying in Hotel California in Todos Santos when he wrote the very eerie yet very enchanting song that was entitled after the name of the hotel. So I expected to arrive at an old-looking and dark building that stands in the middle of the desert by itself. I had in mind a structure that resembled one of those dilapidated wooden motels, something like the one in Psycho, with a sombre looking sign, peeling paint work with a noticeable aura of mystery and gloom. You could then understand my surprise when we arrived at a very pleasant and bright looking hotel with a sign at the facade bearing the words Hotel California.

There were plants and flowers in profusion everywhere. And inside, the halls and the eleven hotel rooms display bright vibrant reds, oranges, yellows, violets and blues. We were informed that the hotel California was salvaged from further ruin and eventually renovated by John Stewart and his charming wife Debbie. There were gently sloping archways and brightly colored windows everywhere one looks, and the decorations were perfect for a Mexican hotel. There were also no mirrors on the ceilings (thankfully!) and we were not served champagne on ice unlike the lyrics of the song. It was also fortunate for us that we booked a room in the hotel more than a month in advance because there were plenty of tourists and vacationers eager to check in at the famous Hotel California.

One of my favorite features of the Hotel California, Todos Santos are no doubt the Hotel California Bar and La Coronela Restaurante. The food in the hotel restaurant is beyond description, all fresh and delicious and unique. And the hotel bar was stocked with plenty of spirits and drinks to choose from, including wine and pink champagne. Ha! We also tried dancing to remember and dancing to forget in the bar which was especially lively and crowded during Friday and Saturday nights. It was fun joking around the very friendly hotel staff. We would sometimes address the hotel manager as captain and the lobby receptionist as night man and they were quick to go along with the jokes.

The entire stay was an enjoyable and wonderful experience and during the time when we were checking out of Hotel California, my friends and I kept singing, “You can check out every time you like, but I don’t want to leave”.

It seems to me that many people nowadays prefer to enjoy plenty of recreational activities such as swimming, scuba diving, shopping, sight seeing or gambling when they are on vacation. I for one however, am one of those people who would rather spend a few relaxing days lounging and doing as little as possible on my vacation instead of engaging in activities that require physical and mental exertion on my part. When my family proposed that we go to Baja California to spend a week of our summer vacation however, I made it certain that we stay at Loreto, Baja California.

Unlike Tijuana or Mexicali which are always crowded with tourists and vacationers looking for a good time, Loreto is a relaxing and peaceful Baja getaway. Not a lot of people know of Loreto actually, and I love that that is so. Although tourism is part of Loreto’s economy, it is by no means the principal source of living that local Loreto citizens depend on. The small municipality is somewhat like a fishing village, with its main industries concentrating on businesses that are connected to the sea such as fishing and pearl diving. Because it is not marketed as a loud, happening party destination, those few tourists that come to Loreto can enjoy a tranquil and relaxing time during their stay.

There are a couple of luxurious and large hotels found in Loreto, Baja California. However, we opted to stay at a small little lodge found near the city proper. What attracted us instantly to the lodge which we stayed in was its quaintness and rustic charm. There are plenty of large, expensive hotels in the United States and so we were not in the least inclined to stay at one during our vacation in Baja California. We rented a two-story villa which had two bedrooms, a fire place, a kitchenette, a living area, three bathrooms and two terraces with a spectacular view of the sea. The furnishings and decorations featured local materials and old-world Mexican charm which made us feel all the more aware of the fact that we are in another country which has a unique and interesting culture of its own.

On the first day during our stay, the kids were very much excited to swim in the beach. Loreto has several beautiful beaches, almost all of which are not crowded during most of the week. We went to the one nearest the lodge and were pleased to see that aside from the sand and the sea, that specific Loreto beach had several mangrove areas that were very picturesque. The water was crystal clear and relaxingly warm. The children were also delighted because they can see many small colorful fishes darting around their submerged feet. I also liked that there was barely any crowd in the beach, so that the kids could wade in the water of walk on the beach for a distance and I can watch them perfectly because there was no noisy crowd blocking my view.

The following day, we went shopping for bargains and souvenirs. I was half expecting that shopping in Loreto was like shopping at Tijuana’s Avenida Revolucion where crowds of noisy, sweaty tourists and locals try to bargain with each other or to advertise their wares. Loreto’s shopping district was definitely not as large or as diversely stocked as Tijuana’s or Ensenada’s. However, it exudes the charm and rustic simplicity that Loreto is known and loved for. The streets and alleyways lined with shops, stalls and boutiques are beautifully cobbled with shiny gray stones and pebbles. There, we were able to buy local art crafts, souvenir sombreros, bottles of tequila and beautifully made silver jewelry pieces for very low prices.

By the end of our vacation, my husband and I felt extremely rejuvenated. Even the children,a s young and hyperactive as they were, were not there noisy and uncontrollable selves during the entire vacation probably because Loreto exudes a relaxing, calming aura. It was nothing short of paradise and we are all in agreement that our next summer vacation should definitely be spend in Loreto, Baja California once more.